Home savings tips and guides.

A rate-and-term refinance replaces your existing mortgage with a new one that has a better rate, a different term, or both — but you don't take any cash out. You may roll closing costs into the new loan, but the net cash to you at closing is zero.

Common reasons to do a rate-and-term refinance: the market shifted and better pricing is available, you want to move from an adjustable rate into a fixed rate, or you want to shorten a 30-year loan into a 15-year for faster payoff. Pricing is usually better than a cash-out refinance because the lender is taking less risk.

How it works

You apply the same way you did for your original mortgage — income, assets, and credit are verified, and the home is appraised (or in some cases, an appraisal waiver applies). The new loan pays off the old one in full, and you start fresh with new terms.

To decide whether it's worth it, calculate a break-even point: divide the total closing costs by your monthly payment savings. If the result is, say, 24 months, and you plan to stay in the home well beyond two years, the refinance is likely worth it. If you might move before then, it may not pencil out.

Shortening the term (30-year into 15-year, for example) usually raises the monthly payment even if pricing improves, because you're paying off the same balance faster. Extending or resetting the term back to a fresh 30 years usually lowers the payment but restarts the amortization clock.

When it matters to you

Rate-and-term refinancing matters most when market pricing shifts meaningfully from where your current loan sits, or when your goals change — for example, wanting to be debt-free faster as retirement approaches.

It matters for ARM holders approaching their adjustment period too — refinancing into a fixed rate before the reset removes the uncertainty of where the adjustable rate will land.

Common mistakes

  • Refinancing without calculating the real break-even point in months and comparing it honestly to how long you'll actually stay.
  • Resetting back to a fresh 30-year term repeatedly, which can extend total time in debt even as the monthly payment looks better each time.
  • Not shopping multiple lenders for a refinance the same way you did for the original purchase loan.
  • Ignoring closing costs rolled into the new loan and only looking at the new monthly payment in isolation.

FAQs

What's the difference between a rate-and-term refinance and a cash-out refinance?

A rate-and-term refinance changes your rate, term, or both without pulling out cash — the net proceeds to you are zero. A cash-out refinance increases your loan balance and gives you the difference in cash.

How do I know if refinancing is worth it?

Divide your total closing costs by your monthly payment savings to get a break-even point in months. If you plan to stay in the home longer than that break-even period, the refinance is generally worth it.

Does refinancing restart my loan term?

Yes, unless you specifically choose a shorter term to match your remaining payoff timeline. A new 30-year refinance resets the clock, even if you've already paid down several years of your original loan.

Keep reading

Related terms

Refinance

Cash-Out Refinance

Replacing your mortgage with a larger one and walking away with the difference in cash — often cheaper than a HELOC for large, one-time needs.

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Costs & Pricing

Interest Rate

The percentage a lender charges you for borrowing the principal balance of your mortgage, used to calculate your monthly principal-and-interest payment.

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Costs & Pricing

Closing Costs

The fees paid at settlement on top of your down payment — lender charges, third-party services, and prepaid taxes and insurance combined.

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